A question we’ve often asked each other around our well-lit Dirt Trax garage, is whether buyers look for horsepower more than low prices when choosing an ATV.

Certainly, big power gets all the headlines and is what makes potential buyers’ spines tingle. However, given the nature of ATV use, does the whole purchase decision get skewed when it comes down to getting the biggest blast for your dollar?

A fine example is the incredible success of the Polaris 500HO Classic. This is probably the largest selling single model in the whole ATV business. Why? If you compare its utility (basically, the way it works), its ride and its features and then mix in its torquey power delivery from a relatively primitive, carbureted powerplant, you can see why the masses gravitate to it when it’s time to write the check.

Another successful model series is Arctic Cat’s downsized new 350 and 425 4×4 series. These are very strong selling models that don’t offer big displacement mills or mind-bending power, but are full-featured ATVs priced at the bargain level.

On the other hand, the sizzle goes to the big-inch, mega-torque 700, 800 and bigger models that have huge price tags but are guaranteed to deliver more thrills per cubic centimeter. Having these influential “flagships” at the top of any OEM’s model list seems to carry enthusiasm downward into their lower priced offerings.

One thing is for sure. ATV buyers won’t buy an ATV with a reputation for being totally punched, no matter how low the price is. What they will buy is an ATV priced low because it’s missing a few features but still delivering decent performance.

Honestly, we’ve talked to hundreds of ATV and UTV owners who have absolutely no clue what to look for when choosing tires.

Frequently, the tires that come with your new ATV aren’t anything more than bare minimum, low-tech donuts destined for a short lifespan.

It’s one sure-fire way for a manufacturer to shave some cost on the MSRP of a wheeler and, unfortunately, it’s false economy. Not all new ATVs fall into this trap but if you own one that has skimped-out on rubber, you will simply never get the most from your off-road vehicle with cheap tires on it.

Here are some things to look for:

Ply rating:

Generally, the more plies the tire has, the longer it will last and the stiffer the sidewall will be. A balance is needed here, particularly with mud tires.

The sidewalls need to have enough “give” to conform to the turf and provide bump absorption, but also need to be stiff enough they don’t get gouged by rocks and stumps or worse cut the sidewall against the rim on impact.

Rubber durometer:

This is actually the grade or texture of the rubber the manufacturer is using in the tire. If the durometer is way soft, you can rip and tear the lugs or simply grind the tread away on hard surfaces.

If it’s too hard, the tire will be slick and slippery on hard, wet surfaces and won’t allow the sidewalls to flex enough to provide good ride characteristics.

Tread pattern and placement:

Oftentimes aftermarket buyers purchase tires that merely look good and don’t serve the riding style the owner has. If you’re riding on gnarly rock surfaces, you need a tire with a tread pattern that wraps around the sidewall a bit so you can bite the granite when you’re wedged somewhere.

If you ride mud a lot, you need widely spaced lugs that will clean-out quickly but with enough lug depth you can get a grip on terra-firma even when submerged. There are a ton of different tread configurations available and you should do some research before you buy.